Ice Parks

 

Quarry Park, A.K.A. “Casket Quarry”

Photo: Hansi Johnson

The information below is provided courtesy of the Duluth Climbers Coalition.

Casket Quarry is the informal name for an abandoned quarry located below Skyline Parkway in West Duluth. The land was originally owned and worked by the Duluth Crushed Stone Company throughout the early 20th century. By the time the company ceased operations it had quarried out a 1000-foot-long, 100-foot-high cliff of black gabbro.

History

By the 1970s, groundwater seeping down the rock face that froze into impressive icicles and pillars had attracted the attention of the local ice climbing community. In the ensuing decades, climbers from beyond Duluth became commonplace as word spread throughout the Midwest of this superb concentration of vertical ice. More recently, Casket Quarry’s reputation as a climbing location has been augmented with the focused development of equipped mixed (a combination of rock and ice) climbing routes. On June 22, 2020, an agreement was reached between the City and the DCC to begin farming ice here, making this Minnesota’s third official farmed ice park.

Ice & Mixed Climbing

Today, this is a premier site for ice and mixed climbing utilized by recreational climbers, university climbing programs, and guided groups. In 2015 Casket Quarry was included in a broad proposal for outdoor recreation projects in the St. Louis River Corridor. The proposal—unanimously supported by the Duluth City Council—has resulted in the acquisition and approved development of Casket Quarry into city-owned parkland with a West Duluth ice climbing park component.

Duluth Climbers Coalition

Dedicated to preserving access to Duluth’s diverse climbing resources and promoting quality climbing opportunities for enthusiasts of all disciplines. Visit the Duluth Climbers Coalition for more information on Casket Quarry and climbing in and around Duluth, MN.

Sandstone

The Midwest's premiere ice climbing park, managed by the Minnesota Climbers Association.

The Sandstone Ice Park is a partnership between the city of Sandstone, MN and the MCA. The Sandstone Ice Park is located in the city-owned Robinson Park. All maintenance and upkeep of the ice farming effort is conducted by a dedicated crew of creative and resourceful volunteers. A labor of love, for the joy of winter climbing. The ice park has four farmed areas: the Upper Schoolroom, the Lower Schoolroom, the Stage Wall, and the North End (also called the Main Flow Area). A system of water pipes, pex tubes, misting nozzles, and low-flow showerheads creates ice flows on the quarried sandstone walls in Robinson Park for WI 3 - 5 climbs ranging from 30 - 80 feet tall.

The Ice Park typically sees climbable ice from late December to early March. The Ice Park is free and open to the public. All climbing is at your own risk. You are responsible for yourself. Cliff-top access is available via a short hike. Top-rope anchors can be set using trees and bolts.

Do not turn off the nozzles during active farming! The farming system relies on flow and pressure to keep the lines from freezing. Please take care to not step on or puncture the farming system. Please report any obvious issues you see with the farming system by contacting us here.

All guiding in The Sandstone Ice Park requires a mandatory seasonal permit available through Sandstone City Hall - (320) 245-5241.

Every January, the Sandstone Ice Park kicks off the new year with the Sandstone Ice Festival, hosted by the MCA.

History

Covert and stealth ice farming was taking place as early as 2004. Ice Farming became official in 2010 when the city installed a water source a few hundred feet from the cliff edge. The MCA requested this at a city council meeting and the city covered the initial investment of $3000. The MCA has purchased and coordinated efforts to install and maintain the pipe and shower head infrastructure of the Ice Park.

In general, or, historically, before any ice farming occurred, ice was ephemeral, only forming one to two times per year on average. Main flows centered on the Matrix Wall from the far left corner (Quick Silver), across the main flows on Matrix and Wahtusi Crack and then more sporadically across the wall to the north until it reaches Turf Wars in the Reservoir Dogs area. From time to time, less reliably forming routes pop up to the south of Matrix Wall and to between Reservoir Dogs area and the last mixed line at the junction of Sigma Wall (Soggy Bottom Boys). There were two years in recent history were ideal condition sled to well over 20 distinct and continuous ice pillars along the entire east-facing walls. Most of the first ascents of the now ephemeral, thin, or non-existent ice lines were claimed in those years (mid-1990s). 

Restrictions

Ice tools are allowed, as of 2010, from well right of the Historic Stage area, all along the Matrix wall and Reservoir Dogs areas and onto the last mixed line to the north, Soggy Bottom Boys. Historically, folks warmed up to the ice season by dry tooling the Diagonal Wall and Muskrat Wall (what has been recently referred to as Sax Wall). This trend continues. In general, crampons are frowned on outside of the winter season, so stick to ice climbing boots or rock climbing shoes in other seasons to reduce scratching of the rock surface.

There is absolutely no ice tool climbing allowed on Sigma Wall, The Relationship Wall, or any route designated a rock climb other than those routes on the Diagonal and Muskrat (Sax) Walls.

Sandstone ice and mixed climbing can be the absolute hardest un-steep climbing you’ll find. Enjoy it responsibly.

Beta

As far as the mixed scene goes, when the main flows grew thin, or when the 20 plus pillars didn’t form, every inch of sandstone from Quicksilver down to Soggy Bottom Boys were either top roped or led and you’d be very surprised, and maybe a little nauseous, looking up from the bottom of some of the mixed routes that have been led on natural gear at Sandstone in the winter by the likes of Mike Dahlberg, Scott Backes , their rope mates and a few others over the decades of climbing in this area. Mixed trad-leading at Sandstone doesn’t leave a lot of options for anyone other than the absolutely honed, however. For starters, one might have a go at Quicksilver, but you’d better have plenty of trad M6 under your belt to safely lead this run out and somewhat un-dependable gear route (and in the Midwest that’s a tall order). After that, maybe consider Wahtusi Crack. But be forewarned, at least two folks have ripped off near the top onto gear in that iced up exit crack: Scott Backes and Carter Stritch. Even these two moderate leads have their tricks and regardless of your current talent and fitness, be careful selecting trad mixed routes here. Rock breaks, ice shatters, turf rips…all independent of how bad-ass you feel that day. 

Winona

Routes at the ice park range from 85-100 ft tall. The plan for next year is to quadruple the size and have approximately 80-100 routes of varying difficulty. All top rope anchors are either bolted or trees which are set up with protective static anchors equipped with quicklinks for rapping ease.

Explore

With a nice approach, long routes and a town with a vibrant arts and music scene, Winona is a very climber friendly town!

Rules

Please make sure to read all the rules and regulations before coming to the park. It is important that all climbers support the city’s regulations. The City of Winona is very pro-climbing so please consider visiting and experiencing all the outdoor recreation that is developing in this scenic river town!

  • Crampons and helmets are required for all persons climbing

  • Helmets are required for all people within the climbing area

  • No unattended fixed ropes allowed

  • Please be courteous and respectful to your fellow climbers

  • It is suggested that all children are accompanied by an adult

  • Please do not cause unnecessary impact to the climbing area

  • Practice “Leave No Trace” principles while on public land- pick up trash, do not damage the rock, etc.

Approach

The hike takes approximately 15 min and offers a great warm up. The trailhead/parking for the ice park and Sugarloaf are the same. The ice park is on the adjacent bluff; west of the Sugarloaf. FYI, the pics on the city website are from the old park.

  • Access the park by hiking the Sugarloaf Trail to the saddle then take the trail to the right (look for signs)

  • Access to both the base and the top is from the same trail- there is NO access from the top of the bluff to the Ice Park- please do not park up top

  • Please do not build anchors over the trail

  • Know before you go; check the City Facebook to be sure the Park is open—we will periodically close for maintenance or to farm more ice. For your safety do not enter the park if it is closed as we could be clearing loose ice or debris.